You really must visit Cinque Terre on the Ligurian coast of Italy. It’s spectacular!

I love Italy! On this particular trip, we chose to base ourselves in Manarola for three nights, and it turned out to be the perfect home base for an authentic stay. There’s something magical about returning to the same little village each evening, wandering its narrow laneways and watching the colourful sunset rays glow and settle over the village houses. Fortunately, we had reserved a room at Affittacamere San Giorgio. This room was ideally located only a few steps away from the exit of the train tunnel walkway. Our standard room was on the ground level; fewer steps, the better! The air conditioning was excellent, and the room was spotlessly clean. We only needed somewhere clean and convenient to sleep.

We dumped our luggage and wandered down to see the village and sea. The atmosphere was just fabulous! Of course we had to take a swim and marvel at our first sunset in Cinque Terre.

The next morning we caught the train to Corniglia before setting off on the coastal hike to Vernazza. Corniglia is a pretty village that can only be reached by train or hiking. We loved looking back at the village from high above. Just stunning!

The trail started easy enough and wound through terraced vineyards and fragrant Mediterranean scrub, with breathtaking views of the sparkling Ligurian Sea around almost every corner. It was such a beautiful hike! At times I was seriously puffed out. We accidentally went higher on the blue path than we should have, but the views were well worth it.

Along the trail we were delighted to discover a small bar perched on the cliff in the tiny hamlet of Prevo. Bar II Gabbiano sits halfway along the Sentiero Azzurro (Blue Path) hiking trail between Corniglia and Vernazza; the highest point of the trail is 208 metres above sea level. The cold drinks were such a relief; the panoramic views were magic!

It was hard to stand up after the rest stop at the bar, but we were determined to push on. We took more wrong turns, cursing and laughing and ending up even higher. The little goat track we took to get back on the right track was challenging. The views looking down at Vernazza were sensational.

Arriving in Vernazza felt like a well-earned reward! We were famished and so exhausted. I had heard from a friend about a place called Trattoria Incadase Da Piva that served fantastic seafood risotto. We were rewarded! It was only a few steps down into the village. We ordered a superb risotto that came out bubbling in a hot pot and served with fresh bread and a glass of chilled white wine. There was even a guitarist playing music, which added to the atmosphere. We didn’t want to leave!

Once we had digested and rested our weary legs, we then set off to see the village and take a swim off the rocks. There were lots of lovely shops and restaurants, all teeming with tourists.

Another day we travelled north by train from Manarola to Monterosso al Mare, the largest of the five villages. One side is the New town (Fegina), a more relaxed area with a long sandy beach, great shops and restaurants. The Old town side (Borgo Antico) features narrow medieval streets, colourful houses and castle ruins. We wandered both sides, lunched, relaxed on the beach, had a swim and instead of hiking, we boarded the ferry for the journey back along the coastline. Seeing the villages from the water was unforgettable—pastel houses clinging impossibly to rugged cliffs, each village revealing itself like a postcard.

In the early evening we caught the train to Riomaggiore. The sun was setting, and the colourful village seemed to glow. We wandered around, bought some fritto misto in cones and made our way to the lookout for sunset photos.

I had read that tourists must be alert at sunset due to pickpockets. So I kept my Travelon safety bag close to my body, thinking I was being careful. In the crowd, a group of teenage girls were talking loudly and laughing as they skipped through the tourists behind me. I sensed something and whipped around; one of the girls darted backwards from me, laughing and ran off. I checked my bag and noticed someone had tried my bag’s front zipper. They had broken a key holder on a metal string; my thief had unsuccessfully tried to pull it out. Luckily, I didn’t have anything attached. I was so thankful I had all my anti-theft clips on. It shows how deft these pickpockets are.

After wandering Riomaggiore’s steep streets and soaking up the evening atmosphere, we hopped back on the late train to Manarola.

Looking back, I wouldn’t change a thing. Three nights gave us enough time to slow down, explore each village at our own pace and enjoy those spontaneous moments—a leisurely lunch, an afternoon swim, or watching the sun disappear into the Ligurian Sea—that often become the most treasured travel memories.

If you only have one day:

Stay in La Spezia. The train to Monterosso al Mare from La Spezia takes approx 30 minutes.  See this link to the train timetable.  After exploring the village of beautiful Monterosso al Mare and its sandy beach, you can start the famous Sentiero Azzurro hike to Vernazza. The 1.5- 2-hour hike to Vernazza from Monterosso al Mare starts in the main square behind the communal building.  Yes, you will need a backpack, hat, good walking shoes, water, snacks, swimsuit and a towel. I also suggest taking a portable phone charger as you won’t be able to resist snapping loads of photos! Allow for at least 3 hours; you might stop often to enjoy all the spectacular views!

A few things to note: The hiking distance from Monterosso al Mare to Corniglia is approximately 3.7 km and takes around 90 minutes if you don’t stop. Difficulty: Moderate (many stone steps after leaving Monterosso al Mare and a bit rough but manageable for agile walkers). Wear good walking shoes, no sandals. It’s a rewarding hike with sensational views of the Ligurian coastline. Also note that in spring to early autumn, on high-traffic days, the trail might become one-way from Monterosso al Mare to Vernazza.

Corniglia can’t be reached by boat, so if you made it hiking, bravo!  Also keep in mind that if you use the train, the station is down near the sea, which means you must hike up at least 100 steps to get to the village!  Hiking from Vernazza is ideal. If you are continuing on to Riomaggiore, then it’s a relief to walk down to the station and take a train. Or you can continue on the hiking path to the tiny pretty village of Manarola.

I found this YouTube video below of Rick Steves Europe. It gives a good overview of the Cinque Terre villages. If you weren’t sure about visiting this area,  this video will convince you that it truly is a must-see destination!