In 2025, I chose to spend my 60th birthday in Istanbul. It was a fun and exciting to explore a city that sits between two continents and seems to have a little bit of everything — ancient history, buzzing neighbourhoods, colourful markets, incredible food and the ever-present Bosphorus.

Our first accommodation was a two-bedroom apartment in the Beyoğlu area. On paper it looked fantastic, and the photos on the booking site certainly made it look modern, spacious and well-located. There was just one small problem. Fifty steps to the apartment door. Not five. Not fifteen. Fifty! With suitcases, jet lag and the July heat, those 50 steps suddenly felt more like 500. Once we finally made it to the apartment, it was indeed big and spacious, and the view was fabulous — looking out over the city towards the Bosporus strait.

But the more we looked around, the more we realised it wasn’t quite as well equipped as we’d expected. The kitchen, in particular, was rather lacking, with only a few mismatched, stained mugs and no proper set of water glasses. Other things were missing too, and the apartment wasn’t as clean as we’d hoped. The main bedroom had a balcony with what could have been a spectacular view, except the balcony door was broken and wouldn’t close properly. This meant the very loud street noise, screeching seagulls and hot Istanbul air had a free invitation into the bedroom. There were no curtains either, so the light and heat came streaming in. Yes, but the view!

By this stage, we were exhausted from the long-haul flight from Sydney, so we decided not to make too much of it. We contacted the host about the problems, dropped our bags and headed straight out to explore. Even though the streets are dirty in areas and there are stray cats on every corner and small water and feed bowls. I love animals, so seeing so many cats welcome in Istanbul immediately won me over.

We wandered down towards the water and along the Galataport promenade, a beautiful waterfront area filled with modern shops, restaurants and wide walkways. It felt stylish and lively, with the city and harbour providing a spectacular backdrop.

From there we wandered into the older Galata neighbourhood, where the atmosphere changed completely. Fresh fish was being cooked over sizzling charcoal grills, colourful little cafés spilled onto the streets and restaurant owners competed with each other to convince passing tourists that their restaurant was the one to choose. Of course we indulged in a delicious fish wrap.

It was noisy, colourful and wonderfully chaotic, exactly what we’d come to Istanbul for. I was hot, tired and thirsty. We had to stop for refreshments. Though it wasn’t Italy, I still had to have an Aperol Spritz. It was just the drink I needed to quench my thirst.

That first night, though we wanted to go out to dinner, we were completely spent. The jet lag from flying from Sydney was real. What was meant to be a rest and then out to dine, became a full night’s sleep, regardless of the screeching seagulls and stifling heat.

Exploring Sultanahmet

The next morning we were up early and took a taxi across to the old city and the famous Sultanahmet area.

First things first — breakfast! We entered a popular historic restaurant and ordered a traditional Turkish breakfast. We quickly discovered that we had made a slight error in judgement with our order. The table arrived absolutely covered in food: breads, cheeses, olives, eggs, jams, vegetables and all sorts of delicious little dishes. Looking at it, we realised the three of us could easily have shared one breakfast rather than ordering separately!

But it was delicious, and there was something rather lovely about sitting around a table piled high with Turkish food to start the day.

Sultanahmet is where you’ll find many of Istanbul’s major sights, so it is incredibly convenient for sightseeing. It is also very busy. Tourists seem to pour in from every direction, particularly around the main attractions.

We visited Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, both of which were fascinating. Standing inside these extraordinary buildings, surrounded by centuries of history, was one of those travel moments where you really appreciate just how old and layered Istanbul is.

Of course, we took plenty of photos!

Seeing Istanbul from the water

That afternoon we decided to escape the crowds and headed for the water. A public ferry trip on the Bosphorus into the Golden Horn estuary turned out to be one of our favourite things to do in Istanbul — and it was also one of the most affordable, approx. 50TL.

From the water, the city looks completely different.

The ferry meanders along the Bosphorus, you can see mosques, palaces, grand waterfront mansions and historic buildings. You get such a great view of the Galata bridge and across both the European and Asian sides of Istanbul. My friend and I enjoy watching Turkish dramas on YouTube and Netflix. We were so excited when we recognised a mansion that was used in the filming of ‘Black Money Love’ (Kara Para Ask)

It was a lovely way to sit back, feel the breeze and take in the sheer scale of the city without having to navigate the traffic and crowds.

Goodbye to the 50 steps!

The following morning we had a light breakfast around Taksim Square before checking out of our apartment. And I have to say, we were rather happy to say goodbye to those 50 steps! We had decided to change accommodation for our final two nights and had booked a private driver for the day to take us around some of the sights on the Asian side of Istanbul. It turned into a fantastic day. Our driver took us to a beautiful park with sweeping views across the harbour and city, followed by a traditional Turkish lunch.

We then visited Beylerbeyi Palace, a stunning 19th-century Ottoman summer residence located in the Üskudar district on the Asian shore of the Bosphorus. It has gorgeous gardens and a lovely walkway along the waterfront.

Inside, it was absolutely beautiful, decorated with a mix of bohemian crystal chandeliers, exquisite carpets, stunning tapestries, antiques and ornate reception rooms that gave us another glimpse into Istanbul’s fascinating past.

In the afternoon, we continued around the city, stopping at the Maiden Tower for a few pics. Then onto the popular Pierre Loti Hill cafe. Lovely cafe and breathtaking views.

Then we headed back to the western shore of the Golden Horn and into the Fatih district to see the historic Balat, one of Istanbul’s most colourful neighbourhoods. Balat is famous for its brightly painted Ottoman houses, little cafés and steep cobbled stone streets. Naturally, it was also full of Instagrammers stopping every few metres for the perfect photo against the backdrop of colour!

By the time our driver dropped us at our new accommodation, we’d had a very full day. And our new hotel?

What a relief!

Finding our Istanbul home

Our new stay, Lina Hotel Taksim Pera, turned out to be exactly what we’d been hoping for. It is located 600 meters from Istiklal Street, and is housed in a historic 19th-century building that was once home to Paul Parma, the Italian tailor of the Ottoman Palace, and his family. The property is 850 meters from Şişhane Metro Station and 980 meters from Taksim Metro Station. 

It was clean, comfortable, stylish, amazingly affordable and in a fantastic location. We were so happy to find this place!

The hotel was surrounded by cafés and restaurants, making it really easy to head out in the evening without having to trek across the city.

We already had the evening booked for a Bosphorus dinner and show cruise on a Mega Lüfer Cruising Yacht. It was my birthday treat. Such a gorgeous evening; the cool ocean breeze, sparkling lights, and great company, was just the medicine I needed after such a busy day.

We had booked our tickets online through Get Your Guide and we all agreed it was great value and a highlight of our Istanbul trip.

The Grand Bazaar

On our last full day we headed to the Grand Bazaar, and it was exactly the colourful shopping maze we had imagined.

There were vendors selling everything from gold jewellery and Turkish sweets to leather goods, clothing, lamps, ornaments and just about anything else you could think of.

It is easy to lose yourself wandering through the lanes and shops, and even if you’re not a big shopper, it’s worth visiting just for the atmosphere.

Afterwards, we had lunch on the Galata Bridge overlooking the water. It was definitely more expensive than some of the places we’d eaten, but the location was lovely, watching the boats passing by and enjoying the cool sea breeze coming off the water.

Galata Tower

We were determined to make it to Galata Tower before we left, so after lunch we set off. We took the tram part of the way, although we managed to get off a little further away than planned — which meant, of course, more walking in the heat. The July heat in Istanbul, in the middle of the day, is seriously intense. As we were desperate tourists who wanted to squeeze more in, we stupidly kept walking. My friend started feeling quite unwell from the heat. Thankfully, we eventually found a café where we could collapse into a couple of chairs and order enormous frozen mango drinks. Those icy mango drinks may genuinely have saved the day!

Once we recovered, we explored the area around Galata Tower. It was buzzing with tourists, little shops, cafés and bars, with plenty of places to stop and watch the world go by. The streets on the other side of the tower were particularly atmospheric, and we wandered downhill through the neighbourhood, stopping to look in shops and cafés along the way. Further down in Galata we were surrounded by colour.

It was a fitting final afternoon in a city that had given us a bit of everything — history, chaos, incredible food, beautiful views, colourful streets, heat, crowds and plenty of laughs. The hotel manager Suzan also recommended a traditional Turkish bathhouse and helped us book it. What an experience! We had a body massage followed by a sauna and then the most amazing foam bubble massage. We were covered in mountains of fluffy soap bubbles before being washed down with buckets of warm water.

It was completely fabulous and such a fun experience.

If you visit Istanbul, I would definitely put a traditional Turkish bath on your list.

Our Istanbul experience

Istanbul is one of those cities that can feel overwhelming at first. It’s huge, busy, noisy and incredibly energetic, but once you get your bearings, there is so much to discover.

We loved the contrast between the old and new parts of the city — from ancient mosques and palaces to modern waterfront promenades, colourful neighbourhoods and lively cafés with delicious food.

And the water is such an important part of Istanbul. Seeing the city from a ferry gives you a completely different perspective and is one of the things I’d recommend doing early in your stay.

Our accommodation mishap also taught us a valuable travel lesson: sometimes it’s worth admitting that somewhere just isn’t working and moving on. We were so much happier once we’d changed hotels.

Practical Tips for Istanbul

Stay in Beyoğlu/Taksim: We loved this side of the city, particularly for restaurants, cafés and evening atmosphere. It also felt convenient for getting around. Also, you won’t hear the bellowing voice of the Meuzzin at the Mosques on the loudspeaker which calls all to prayer 5 times a day!

Use the public transport: The trams, metro and ferries are an easy and affordable way to get around Istanbul. Don’t be afraid to use them. Buy an IstanbulKart card. You can buy them from a kiosk machine found near any transport area. Once you have it, you load it with money. It’s not only convenient but usually cheaper and necessary in some cases. Taxis are expensive, and you can sometimes be scammed into paying much more than you should.

Take a public ferry: One of our favourite experiences. It’s inexpensive and gives you fantastic views of Istanbul from the water.

Consider a private driver for a day: If you want to see more of the city without spending the day navigating public transport, a private driver is a great option. We particularly enjoyed exploring the Asian side and several viewpoints in one day.

Allow plenty of time: Istanbul is enormous. Don’t try to cram every sight into one day — you’ll spend half your time walking and the other half recovering!

Be prepared for summer heat: July can be seriously hot. Comfortable shoes, water, sunscreen and regular café stops are essential.

Try a Turkish bath: It’s touristy, yes, but it was also one of our favourite experiences.

Try a dinner cruise: A dinner cruise on the Bosphorus is a wonderful way to spend an evening, particularly when Istanbul lights up after dark.