Where I Started Dreaming of Staying as a Local

There are some places you visit and enjoy, then there are places that somehow make you feel like you belong. Ortigia was one of those places for me. We had already had a taste of Sicily while staying in Catania and Giardini Naxos; we were smitten. Ortigia was our next stop on our two-week road trip in Sicily.

I was so excited to visit and had chosen my accommodation carefully so that we would be located right inside the historic part of Ortigia. Our hosts Cinzia and Roberto were the loveliest people and so incredibly kind and helpful. They own two gorgeous fully renovated apartments in one of the best locations. You can find them on Airbnb or booking apps as Le Casette Gargallo 1 – Ortigia. Our apartment had everything you would need for a short or a long stay. It was impeccably clean, modern and fully equipped, and the bonus was that it was only a five- minute stroll to the ocean or into the beautiful narrow alleyways of shops, trattorias and historic monuments. We had a rental car, so we had alerted the hosts of our number plate. This is important as you don’t want any surprise fines. The hosts inform the local council so we could drive across onto the island. They had saved us a rare free parking spot a short distance from our apartment. The last day we parked in the nearby Talete car park for €15 day rate. I was so in love with the apartment and felt connected to our lovely hosts Cinzia and Roberto. I secretly wished I lived there, as I could see they could become treasured friends.

I had been looking forward to visiting Sicily, but I don’t think I was quite prepared for how much I would love this little island. From the moment I started wandering through its narrow streets, I found myself slowing down, looking up and wondering what it would be like to actually live here rather than simply visit.

Ortigia is the historic heart of Syracuse, sitting on a small island just off the coast and connected to the mainland by bridges. It isn’t particularly large, which is part of its charm. You can wander without really knowing where you’re going; before long, you’ll find yourself in a tiny piazza, standing beside an ancient ruin or looking out over impossibly blue water.

I even managed to speak some broken Italian to an older Italian couple. They were sitting on a bench in Piazza Archimede facing the fountain of Diana, watching the world go by. We somehow managed to understand each other. They were lovely and friendly, a travel memory I won’t forget!

A place where history is everywhere

What struck me most about Ortigia is the way its history isn’t separated from everyday life. Everything blends; historic buildings alongside modern businesses. I particularly loved the markets. The local fishmongers call out to their customers and yell buongiorno if you smile. A place where you can sit and enjoy a glass of prosecco and freshly shucked oysters or a pastry at a cafe.

It’s not a town where you visit an archaeological site and then go back to the modern city. Here, the ancient and the everyday modern life seem to exist side by side. You can fill your cup with its history and charm, and also take a break with a swim off the walls in the crystal-clear water of the Ionian Sea.

Ortigia has an incredibly long history. Syracuse was founded by the ancient Greeks more than 2,700 years ago and became one of the most important cities of the Greek world. Over the centuries, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans and Spaniards all left their mark.

You don’t really need to know all of that history before you arrive because you can see it as you walk. Ancient Greek columns are incorporated into buildings. Medieval streets lead to grand Baroque churches. Weathered stone walls sit beside little cafés where people are having their morning coffee.

It’s a bit like walking through several different centuries at once.

And that’s what makes Ortigia so fascinating to me. It doesn’t feel like a museum. People actually live here. They shop, meet friends, walk their dogs, sit outside cafés and go about their everyday lives surrounded by thousands of years of history. It’s truly unique!

The Temple of Apollo

One of the first places I wanted to see was the Temple of Apollo. It’s difficult to imagine that these ancient ruins are right in the middle of the modern city. The temple dates back to the 6th century BC and is believed to be one of the oldest Doric temples in Sicily. I loved the contrast – ancient stone surrounded by the sounds and movement of modern Ortigia. It’s one of those places where you can stand there looking at the remains and suddenly think about just how much has happened on this tiny island since these stones were first laid.

Piazza del Duomo

Then there is Piazza del Duomo, which I think would have to be one of the places I’d return to again and again. The piazza is beautiful from every direction, surrounded by pale limestone buildings that seem to glow in the Sicilian sunshine.

And then there’s the cathedral. What makes the Cathedral of Syracuse particularly fascinating is that it was built around an ancient Greek temple dedicated to Athena. You can actually see some of the original Greek columns incorporated into the cathedral. I love discoveries like this when travelling – the sort of detail you might walk straight past if you weren’t paying attention. This Piazza is definitely somewhere to stop rather than simply photograph and move on. Sit down, order a coffee, watch people coming and going and take in the buildings around you.

The Fountain of Arethusa

Another place I wouldn’t miss is the Fountain of Arethusa. It’s one of those little corners of Ortigia that feels almost magical as you almost stumble upon it. It has a freshwater spring surrounded by papyrus plants, right beside the sea. Nearby there’s a little beach club and strip of sand where you can take a swim.

Of course, there is a Greek myth attached to it – the story of Arethusa, a nymph who escaped from the river god Alpheus and was transformed into a spring. Whether you believe the mythology or not, standing there with the sea beyond it, surrounded by greenery and ancient stone, makes it easy to understand why the Greeks created stories about this landscape. It’s a pretty area to see towards the end of the day when the light begins to soften.

Castello Maniace

At the very southern end of Ortigia is Castello Maniace, a huge stone fortress overlooking the sea. Built in the 13th century during the reign of Frederick II, it is another reminder of just how many different periods of history have passed through Ortigia. Even if you’re not particularly interested in castles, the location makes it worth visiting. We only saw the outside; it was imposing enough. There’s something wonderful about standing at the edge of the island with the Mediterranean stretching out in front of you. I could have stayed there for ages just looking at the water. Stunning views and the colour of the sea were mesmerising.

Getting lost in Ortigia

But honestly, my favourite moments in Ortigia weren’t at the famous sights; they were the moments in between. I loved wandering through the narrow lanes and little neighbourhoods without worrying too much about where I was going. Every laneway was a photographer’s dream. It was also surprisingly peaceful to wander around the back alleyways, discovering things rather than using a map. The old Jewish quarter of Giudecca is particularly atmospheric, with its narrow lanes, old buildings and hidden corners.

And then there’s the sea.

I didn’t expect how much the sea would be part of the experience. My partner and I really love to mix our travel with seeing historic places, enjoying great food and wine in the European summer. Yes, it’s very hot, but to see all the Italians making the most of their holiday time in the sea really adds to the magic of a holiday in Italy. Ortigia is surrounded by water, and it seems that sooner or later every walk brings you back to it. There are waterfront promenades, little rocky swimming spots and places where you can simply sit and watch the water. The mornings are bright, the sea is sparkling, inviting you to start your day.

As the day starts to disappear, the breeze streams through, which is delightful in summer. The light on the old buildings softens and the whole island seems to glow.

We had three nights in Ortigia . We loved staying right in the historic area, being able to start our days with a swim, a visit to a bar for coffee and a cornetto. Our days were spent visiting places such as Noto, Marzamemi and other nearby coastal gems.

Then we would return for an afternoon swim and an aperitivo on our balcony, before heading out to join the passegiata of locals and tourists. Another thing I loved about Italians: when couples, young or old are strolling in the afternoon or evening, they are holding hands. It was so lovely to see. I nudged my partner a few times, saying, “See, that’s how you keep romance alive.”

The places I’d make sure to see

If you’re visiting Ortigia for the first time, these are the places I’d put on my list:

Temple of Apollo – for a first glimpse of ancient Greek Syracuse.

Piazza del Duomo and Syracuse Cathedral – don’t rush this one. Sit in the piazza and take it all in.

Fountain of Arethusa – a beautiful little spot with an interesting Greek mythology connection.

Castello Maniace – at the southern tip of the island and surrounded by the sea.

Giudecca – wander the old streets and see where they take you.

Ortigia Market – go in the morning when it’s at its liveliest.

Piazza Archimede – another lovely square and home to the Fountain of Goddess Diana.

The waterfront – walk along it, stop for a drink and, if it’s warm enough, find somewhere to swim.

And if you have more time, I’d definitely venture across to mainland Syracuse to visit the Neapolis Archaeological Park, where you’ll find the enormous Greek Theatre, Roman amphitheatre and the famous Ear of Dionysius. We did this after check-out, just before we headed to our next stay at Ragusa Ibla.

One thing I always say, no matter where I visit in Italy, is that I wouldn’t make the mistake of filling every hour with sightseeing. Ortigia is definitely a place to wander and discover at a slower pace.

Could I live in Ortigia?

This is probably the biggest impression Ortigia left me with. I could actually imagine living here for a few months.

Not forever. I’m not quite ready to give up my life in Australia as I have two dogs at home, family and adorable grandchildren. It’s very tempting to live like a Sicilian local, though and this is a place I would seriously consider for a few months. I can picture myself renting a little apartment with a balcony or a rooftop terrace, walking out in the morning for a coffee and spending the day exploring at a much slower pace. I’d shop at the market, discover the little restaurants, walk along the waterfront and gradually get to know the streets rather than constantly wondering what I should see next.

And there’s another reason I’d love to spend a few months here.

I’d love to learn Italian properly while actually living in Italy. There is the Italian Language Academy in Ortigia where you can study Italian and combine the lessons with cultural activities and experiences. That idea really appeals to me. Imagine spending the morning learning Italian and then having to use it straight away – ordering your coffee, buying something at the market, asking directions, chatting to the locals or trying to understand what the waiter is telling you about the day’s specials. I’m sure I’d make plenty of mistakes, but that’s part of the fun. I’d much rather learn Italian while sitting in a Sicilian café than sitting at home trying to memorise verbs.

And perhaps that’s why Ortigia stayed with me.

It wasn’t just the beautiful buildings, the ancient history or the sparkling blue water.

It was the feeling that life here could be slower, simpler and a little more delicious.