Naples is one of those cities that divides people. You either fall hopelessly in love with it or spend your entire visit wondering when to leave. Me? I loved it. In fact, I’ve visited Napoli twice, and each time it has captivated me all over again.

The moment you step off the train, Naples wraps itself around your senses. It is a city that hums with life. Colour spills from balconies draped with washing, scooters dart through impossibly narrow streets, voices rise and fall in passionate conversation, and the scent of espresso drifts from crowded cafés. Naples isn’t polished or predictable. It’s raw, chaotic, vibrant and utterly unforgettable.

Both times we travelled from Rome aboard the high-speed Italo train. In just 1 hour and 15 minutes, we were whisked from Roma Termini to the heart of Southern Italy in air-conditioned comfort, enjoying snacks and refreshments as the Italian countryside flashed past our window.

For our first stay, we chose Unahotels Napoli, conveniently located only a five-minute walk from Napoli Centrale Station. Simply take the escalator down from Piazza Garibaldi, follow the pedestrian underpass, and you’ll emerge almost directly opposite the hotel.

The hotel exceeded our expectations. Our superior double room was spacious and overlooked the bustling Piazza Garibaldi below, where the city seemed to perform an endless theatre of daily life. The bathroom was enormous, and from our windows we could watch Naples unfolding beneath us from dawn until late into the evening.

If, like me, you love discovering where locals actually shop, then venture across the road to the neighbourhood mercati. This isn’t Naples packaged for tourists. This is the real thing.

Rows of stalls overflow with glistening seafood, mountains of vibrant vegetables, and fruit so colourful it resembles an artist’s palette. Fishmongers proudly display their catch while calling out prices in booming voices. Seagulls circle overhead, screeching in anticipation of an easy meal. Elderly women bargain passionately while locals weave effortlessly through the crowds.

You may attract curious glances. Tourists are few here, and you’ll stand out immediately. The area is rough around the edges, a little gritty and sometimes intimidating, but that’s part of its authenticity. This is where Naples reveals its true character.

The market is a feast for every sense.

I have never seen such an astonishing variety of seafood. Oysters the size of my hand lay piled high on beds of ice. Unable to resist, I summoned my basic Italian and asked one of the vendors:

“Vorrei mangiare una di quelle ostriche con del limone, per favore.”

A few moments later, I was standing among the locals, savouring one of the freshest oysters I’ve ever tasted, brightened by a squeeze of lemon and the salty air of the Mediterranean.

After exploring the markets, we wandered deeper into the surrounding neighbourhoods. Laundry fluttered overhead like colourful flags suspended between ancient apartment buildings. Tiny shrines adorned walls. Weathered doorways hinted at generations of family stories hidden behind them.

By lunchtime, the streets were perfumed with the irresistible aroma of simmering salsa di pomodoro. The scent drifted from open windows and restaurant kitchens, mingling with the clean fragrance of freshly washed linen drying in the sunshine above.

Then, almost magically, the city seemed to pause. Many shops closed their doors, streets emptied, and families retreated home for lunch. In the heat of the European summer, the Italian tradition of a long midday meal followed by a rest suddenly made perfect sense.

Naples has a reputation that often precedes it. Like any large city, there are neighbourhoods best avoided, and visitors should familiarise themselves with local advice before exploring. The city’s complex history includes the lingering influence of organised crime, and petty theft can occur.

Yet despite this, I wholeheartedly recommend visiting Naples. Because beyond the headlines lies a city unlike any other in Italy. A city that is unapologetically itself. Authentic, passionate, imperfect and endlessly fascinating.

One of the highlights of our stay was the assistance we received from the concierge at Unahotels Napoli. Armed with a local map, he carefully marked hidden gems, favourite restaurants, historical sites and walking routes only locals would know.

Following his recommendations, we set off in search of the famous Antica Da Michele Pizzeria. Unfortunately, it was closed for renovations during our visit. Our disappointment lasted all of thirty seconds.

Directly across the road, another bustling pizzeria was overflowing with Neapolitans enjoying long lunches. We squeezed ourselves in among the locals and ordered pizza and glasses of vino.

The atmosphere was pure Naples. Waiters called to each other across the room. Conversations bounced between tables. Nobody spoke English. Somehow, through a mixture of smiles, gestures and our limited Italian, we managed to order exactly what we wanted. The pizza arrived blistered from the wood-fired oven, with a perfectly charred crust and rich tomato sauce that tasted of sunshine and summer. It was simple, authentic and absolutely delicious.

Later, we made our way towards the city’s historic heart. Walking along Spaccanapoli—the ancient street that is favoured by tourists and is truly fascinating. You feel as though you’ve stepped back through centuries.

Along the way we passed Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, admired the beautiful Monastery of Santa Chiara, and eventually arrived at San Gregorio Armeno.

Known as Naples’ famous Christmas Alley, this enchanting street is lined with artisan workshops that have been crafting nativity figures for generations. Tiny figurines of shepherds, angels, politicians, footballers and celebrities fill every window display. Even if you’re not visiting at Christmas, it’s impossible not to leave with a souvenir.

Another experience not to miss is Naples Underground. You must try to see the Napoli Sotteranea. A guided tour will take around 1.5 hours and is a perfect afternoon activity if visiting Naples in summer.

We went on a sweltering August afternoon, descending beneath Piazza San Gaetano, which felt like entering another world. Cool air replaced the summer heat as we explored a labyrinth of tunnels, aqueducts and passageways stretching beneath the modern city. The stories hidden beneath Naples are as fascinating as those above it.

The tunnels become even narrower in some areas, so if you feel challenged in small confined areas or can’t walk lots of steps, then it might not be the tour for you.

Nearby, the San Lorenzo Maggiore complex reveals layers of ancient history, including the remains of the city’s Roman marketplace, where citizens once gathered centuries before modern Naples existed.

As evening approached, we returned to Unahotels Napoli and headed straight to the rooftop terrace.

Perched high above the city, the rooftop restaurant and bar offer breathtaking panoramic views across Naples. As the sun slowly dipped below the horizon, the city below glowed with golden light. Church domes shimmered, scooters buzzed through narrow streets, and the distant outline of Mount Vesuvius stood watch over it all.

With a glass of wine in hand, we sat back and watched Naples transform from day to night. The noise softened but never disappeared.

The city continued to pulse with life beneath us. The thing about Naples, you don’t simply visit it. You feel it. Long after you’ve left, its sounds, colours, flavours and energy stay with you, calling you back for just one more visit.

Published by Seafarrwide

Love travel, food and experiences. View all posts by Seafarrwide